we were on waitlist, meaning we didn't have served seats. apparently when that happens you just get on the train anyway and try to convince someone to let you sit near them. we did. we slept for about 12 hours until we were kicked out of bunks by the rightful ticket holders and spent the remaining 4 hours standing near 300 other dudes and ladies next to the bathroom. every station i would run outside and buy a thumbs up or a bisleri and run back on to share it with eliot. we talked alot about our observations of india, and how romancing the stone is the poorman's indiana jones.
i won't say more other than it was without a doubt the worst train ride yet. at one point i saw a fistfight between two dudes, covered my face with my week-old bike shorts to keep a worse scent OUT and went to sleep covered head to toe in sweat.
arrived in agra about 12:30am and biked 10km to a hotel. no sign of the taj, we just crashed and slept the sleep of the dead.